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This repair manual offers extensiv repair-instructions and is an up-to-date version that describes the latest models of the series. However, the right to modifications in the interest of technical improvement is reserved without updating the current issue of this manual. A description of general working modes common in work shops has not been included. Safety rules common in the work shop have also not been listed.
We take it for granted that the repairs are made by qualified profesionally trained mechanics. The KTM high performance engine is only able to meet user expectations if the maintenance work is performed regularly and professionally. We have made every effort to make our repair manuals as accurate as possible but it is always possible for a mistake or two to creep in.
To keep improving the quality of our repair manuals, we request mechanics and shop foremen to assist us as follows:. If you find any errors or inaccuracies in one of our repair manual — whether these are technical errors, incorrect or unclear repair procedures, tool problems, missing technical data or torques, inaccurate or incorrect translations or wording, etc.
You will find the number on the cover page or in the left margin on each right page of the manual. If your text deviates from the text contained in the repair manual, please write your text in German or English if possible. Your corrections will be reviewed and incorporated in the next issue of our repair manual. Additional suggestions, requests or comments on our Repair Manuals in German or English :. Via the long oil screen 2 , the oil pump 1 draws engine oil from the oil sump of the transmission.
This engine oil flows through an oil line 3 into the cylinder head for camshaft lubrication 4 ; the oil quantity is controlled by the jet bolt 5. An oil duct branches off to the long oil filter 6 where the coarser particles contained in the engine oil are filtered away.
Then, the engine oil arrives at the short oil filter 7 which also filters the fine particles. Now, the purified engine oil is pumped past the bypass valve 8 to the conrod bearing 9 and sprayed from below onto the piston through a nozzle bk.
The second oil pump bl draws the engine oil via the short oil screen bm out of the crankcase, thereby lubricating the transmission gears bn. Only use fully synthetic brand oils Motorex Power Synt. The engine oil level can be checked with the engine being either warm or cold. Place the motorcycle in an upright position and on a horizontal surface not on the side stand.
If the engine is cold, the engine oil must be visible at the lower edge of the inspection glass A. If the engine is warm, the engine oil must be visible up to the upper edge of the inspection glass B.
NOTE: Engines up to the model have a sight glass and an oil dipstick. If the inspection glass is heavily soiled e. For this purpose, unscrew the dipstick and wipe it clean with a cloth. Screw the dipstick back in and screw it out again. If the engine is warm, the oil level should be near the MAX mark C. NOTE: When changing the engine oil, it is necessary to clean the short and long oil screens and to replace both oil filters. Place the motorcycle on a horizontal surface, remove the plug 1 and allow the oil to drain into a receptacle.
The short oil screen 2 is accommodated in the hex-socket plug 3 on the engine bottom. Insert a pin-type key into the plug and tap on the key a few times with a hammer in order to relieve the stress acting on the plug. Dismount the oil screen, clean the components thoroughly and blow compressed air through them.
Mount the oil screen together with the plug again and tighten the plug to 10 Nm. The long oil screen is accommodated in the hexagon plug 4 adjacent the engine number. Dismount the plug together with the oil screen, clean the components thoroughly and blow compressed air through them. To mount the long oil screen 5 , place it on an approx.
Insert the pin-type key through the opening into the bore of the opposite engine casing wall. Then, push the oil screen into the engine casing as far as possible. Remove the bolt 1 and swing the brake fluid container sideward. Place a receptacle underneath the engine to collect the drained oil. Remove the 4 bolts 2 and dismount the two oil filter covers.
Using circlip pliers, you may now pull the oil-filter inserts 3 out of the housing. Clean the oil filter cover, the sealing surfaces of the O-rings and the engine casing.
Check the O-rings of the oil filter covers for damage and, if necessary, replace them. Put the motorcycle on its side and fill the oil filter housings about halfway with engine oil. Insert the long oil filter at the front and the short oil filter at the back of the housing. Grease the O-rings 4 of the oil filter covers and mount the cover. Remove the oil dipstick 5 at the clutch cover and fill in 1. Start the engine and check all screwed connections and oil filter covers for leaks.
For this purpose, remove bolts 1 and cover together with the. The oil level in the horizontal-standing master cylinder. For bleeding, the cover of the master cylinder of the clutch needs to be removed. For this purpose, remove screws 1 and take off cover together with rubber bellows 2. At the slave cylinder of the clutch, remove the bleeder nipple. At its place, mount the bleeder syringe 3 which is filled with biodegradable hydraulic oil.
Refill oil, until oil is discharged from the bore A of the master cylinder in a bubble-free state. Make sure that the oil does not overflow. Repair manual. Clean your motorcycle regularly in order to maintain the beauty of its plastic surfaces. The best manner would be to use warm water that has been mixed with a normal brand-name washing detergent and a sponge.
The hard dirt can be removed before washing with the help of a soft water jet. Especially dirty parts should be cleaned additionally with the help of a paint brush. Drain the float chamber of the carburetor. Then take a short drive until the engine has reached the working temperature and also apply the brakes.
By warming these components, the residual water can evaporate from inaccessable parts of the engine and the brakes. Treat the chain with a chain spray.
Also oil the fuel tap. In the event that the motorcycle is also used in winter and on roads where one has to expect salt spraying, you will have to take precautions against the aggressive road salt. Should you desire to make a pause over a longer space of time, please observe the following instructions:. Then open the drain plug from the float chamber to remove the remaining fuel.
Actuate kick-starter 10 times in order to distribute the oil onto the cylinder walls and mount the spark plug. Do not use non air permeable materials as any humidity may not be able to escape and could cause corrosion. Be sure to use the correct fastening torques see technical specifications. To bleed the cooling system, fill in approx. Do not reinstall the bleeder bolt.
Then, fill in the coolant until it reaches a level about 10 mm above the radiator fins. To adjust move back the protective cover 2 , loosen the counter nut 3. Tighten counter nut and. Slide back the protection cover 5. Loosen the counter nut. Turning the adjusting. NOTE: Do not remove the clutch holder to allow the flywheel nut to be removed later.
NOTE: When ordering a new part, a forged rotor will be supplied, this part is produced without rivets and is interchangeable. T HIS. Take the outer clutch hub 4 together with the bearing bush and the. Dismount the piston. Pull timing chain tensioner and timing chain guide upward out of the engine casing. Pull the kickstarter idler gear 2 and the E-starter idler gear 3 off the bearing bolts. Take the bearing bolt out of the engine casing. Release the kickstarter spring and unhitch the spring shackle.
Pull stop disc, oil pump wheel, and needle roller off the oil pump shaft. They may remain in the shift roller. NOTE: For a complete engine overhaul procedure, we recommend that you replace all gaskets, shaft seal rings, O-rings, and bearings. Read through the following section before commencing work. Then determine the assembly sequence so that the engine housing halves only need to be heated up once before replacing the bearings. Having first removed the dowels, in order to expel the bearings or remove them with light mallet blows, the housing halves must be placed on a suitably large plane surface, supporting the whole of the sealing surface without damaging it.
A wooden panel is best used as a base. Bearings or shaft seal rings should not be hammered into their seats. If no suitable press is available, use a suitable mandrel and hammer them in with great care. Cold bearings will practically drop into their seats at an engine housing temperature of approx. After cooling, should the bearings fail to lock in the bore, they are bound to rotate after warming. In that event the housing must be replaced. Blow compressed air through all oil ducts and check them for unobstructed passage.
Check the 2 dowels 1 for tight fit and, if necessary, adhere them by means of Loctite Remove all shaft seal rings and use an oven to heat the casing half to approx. Use a suitable punch to press the cylindrical-roller bearing from the outside to the inside.
From the inside, press in a new cylindrical-roller bearing up to the stop. Use a suitable punch to press the grooved ball bearing from the outside to the inside.
From the inside, press in a new grooved ball bearing up to the stop. NOTE: The grooved ball bearing on the main shaft 3 is secured with a screw from the models. Apply Loctite to the thread of the screw and tighten to 5 Nm. Bearing bolt of the kickstarter idler gear 6 Bearing bolt of the E-starter idler gear 7.
By experience, no wear occurs on the bearing bolts. Exchanging of bearing bolts is possible only to a limited extent because, in most cases, this will cause damage to the casing. Grooved ball bearing 1 and seal ring 2 of balancer shaft. Grooved ball bearing of shift roller 3 Remove the screw A. At a casing temperature of approx.
If necessary, knock the casing half lightly on a planar wooden board. Press new grooved ball bearing in to a flush position. The oil pump casing 6 must not have any score marks or seizing marks.
NOTE: In order to clean all oil ducts and check them for unhindered passage you should dismantle both jets and the bypass valve see below. Dismount the oil jet and clean with compressed air.
Degrease the thread of the oil jet, apply Loctite and mount the oil jet. Clean all oil ducts with compressed air and check them for unobstructed passage. Remove the old shaft seal ring by levering it out with a screwdriver. Press a new shaft seal ring in up to the stop.
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