That is the one in the middle. What happens is the cable shifts in the sleeve, moving one direction or the other, usually further into the motor, away from the transmission. However, over time this shifts into the motor and looses it's grip in the transmission causing the seat to have no movement at the position of the cable slide. For several months I put gaff tape on the cable to pull it towards the rear seat.
That allowed the cable to catch just enough to engage and allow the seat to move with the controls. You have to look and reach under the seat and look at the cable that comes from the center motor. When you move the control you will see and feel the cable twitch so you can push on the right one. If you put pressure on it like you are trying to jam it into the part that moves on the track and allow it to work while pressure is applied.
One, replace the cable. Two, shorten the cable sleeve to cause the cable to have a grip on both ends. The instructions below show you how to shorten the cable sleeve so the cable grips the motor and transmission. I had heard good stuff about them so I tried it. This is a brief summary of the general steps involved with the leatherique stuff but make sure you follow the specific instructions of whatever you buy.
Step One cleaning is to use the rejuvinator oil to soften up the leather. It's good to put the oil on and let it soak into the leather. Leaving the car out in the sun with the windows rolled up is a good way to get the oil to soak in. Several hours is good. The oil pulls a lot of dirt out out of the leather and gets it ready. The you use their cleaner to wipe the seats and get rid of the dirt.
Step 2 sanding : Now you use a prepping agent and grit sandpaper to sand the old dye off the seat. You want to take as much of the old dye or color off the seat as you can.
The trick is not to sand off so much that you make suede out of the seat. Keep checking the leather to make sure you're not taking off too much. If you're scared I'd try grit until you get the feel of it. You will need quite a bit, I'd say 4 or 5 sheets. Scary at first but the seat has to look worse before it looks better At this point you might want to reapply the oil to really get it into the now open pores of the leather.
It will really help to make it super soft. I let it dry over night and then wiped it off. Step 3 Repairing : Now it's time to repair the cracks. I used a crack filler which is a type of putty the you force into the cracks of the leather with the business card. If you want to keep the grain texture of the leather, you'll want to make sure that only the crack is filled with putty and no where else.
The putty can cover up the grain of the leather and make it smooth so you won't see the grain after the dye goes on. Some people might like that, others might not. It's up to you I guess.
I didn't mind the smooth look of the leather so I didn't worry about it. The whole process is a lot like patching drywall, light coats, wait 30 min, sand and do it again if necessary. You want to make sure the seat is nice and smooth where the putty has been applied without any excess filler sticking up.
That will be very noticeable on the seat when you're done and you don't want that. Here's what my seat looked like at the end of the process:. Step 4 Re-dye : Make sure the seat is clean and put the dye into a dish or can do you can apply it. Their instructions say to pour the whole bottle of dye into the dish because the pigment tends to settle into the bottom. Believe it. In fact, it helps to stir it once in a while as well.
I used a paper towel and put the dye on very very sparingly. Press in very firmly at the base of the rods while a helper pulls upward on the headrest. It is a little tricky to figure out exactly where you need to press, but you will get it to come out eventually.
Then you can just pull the cover off. While it is off you can also fix broken seat heater elements and repair the lumbar support if it needs fixing. To replace the cover, use nylon cable ties instead of the hogrings. The seat covers have metal rods sewn in that you need to capture with the nylon ties the same way the hogrings used to.
If you are expecting heavy use, you could use 2 at each point. I trim off the remaining ends with wire cutters. Lumbar Support Repair. The most common failure is a broken adjustment bracket screw: the large white screw in the photo which separates from its square end support piece on the other side of the adjuster.
This is a design fault. The following are the steps I followed:. I have repaired the broken screw assembly many times in my 4 Volvos and The threaded portion pulls out of the nylon assembly due to stress from being tight full support. Here's my overly-complicated method of fixing the cheesy-engineered lumbar support on my T wagon: I held the broken pcs together and used a suitable transfer punch to locate the center of end part.
Then glued the broken pcs, using krazy glue or equivalent cyanoacrylate. Starting with a 65mm long x 9. The end thread M8 x 1. Photos below. Seat Pocket Mount Repair. Remove the seat pocket from the car and clean the area around the broken mount with solvent alcohol. If you use isopropyl from the drug store make sure it has no oils in it, many times rubbing alcohol has mineral oil added to it and this defeats its use as a cleaner.
Remove and clean the part of the pocket still attached to the seat. Re- attach this to the seat pocket using solvent weld, do NOT glue!! The trick to solvent welding is to get both pieces very clean and hold them together.
Then touch a modeler's paint brush wet with solvent to the joint. If you have enough but NOT too much solvent on the brush it will wick into the joint and very soon a small bead of plastic will ooze out of the joint. If you have too much solvent on the brush it will run all over and mar the surface of the plastic. Weld using your now perfected solvent welding skills the small piece of plastic sheet into place. Drill the hole in the attaching well through the newly attached piece of plastic.
Scuff the outside of the bushing with sandpaper or a file to make the epoxy adhere to it. Bolt this bushing into place using the nut and bolt. The length of the bolt has to allow it to project about 7mm out of the repaired seat pocket and the length of the bushing is such that the head of the bolt is still below the surface of the well opening. See the diagram! Carefully mix the epoxy and pour it around the bushing and fill to almost the top of the bushing.
Do NOT fill past the bushing!! Set this whole mess aside in such a way that the epoxy is even and level in the opening, watch it for a minute or so to make sure you have it setting level. When fully set up overnight in warm area even if you used fast set epoxy remove the nut and install using the bolt used to hold the bushing into place. I've heard of a TSB about lowering the front seats to gain about 1" to 1.
My local dealer does not know about it. Can anyone help me identify it, or even better, tell me what it says and whether it's a DIY kind of job? The drawing on the service bulletin shows that there are two sets of mounting holes in the seat bottom frame, where the six springs under the cushion hook into the seat frame.
The bulletin suggests hooking the springs into the lower series of six holes. It was horizontal mainly - from the side. Worked my fingers and pressed it - released the headrest. It does require some pressure.
About nine inches above the top edge of the seat pocket, there is a line of stitching, which runs from right to left, about 5" below the top of the seat there are also lines of stitching, that run down towards the top edge of the seat pocket. About one inch above the top line of stitching, there is an angled area, where the fabric is stretched, so that the central part of the seatback forms a recessed panel.
About 1. It will move forward, as you press on it. This is the headrest catch release lever. The front edge of the steel headrest post has a notch in it.
The headrest catch locks into that notch. When you press forward on the headrest catch release lever, you disengage the catch from the notch. It is sometimes helpful to push down on the headrest, push the headrest catch release lever forward, and then pull up on the headrest, to disengage the headrest catch from its notch on the headrest post.
To re-install the headrest, simply align the posts with the holes, and push the headrest downwards. It will automatically lock into place.
Place a towel and a piece of timber on dash for protection. Rest end of wood through seat on top of packing on dash, then put your shoulder under other end and provide upwards pressure while pushing on seat back with knuckles or thumbs slightly to the outside of each headrest tube and about 80mm down from top of seat. The actual lock is a cut and pressed whistle notch 3mm deep in the 12mm diameter tubes; the notches are facing the windscreen. First remove the rear seat back. The headrests are accessible once the seat back comes out.
The small section has a single headrest. The large section has an outer headrest closest to the door and an inner headrest in the center of the car, next to the inner edge of the small section. The large section's inner headrest is part of the infant booster seat.
I presume you want to remove the outer headrests, i. Vinyl Repair. I found that a clear PVC solvent adhesive does a real functional job on repairing tears in vinyl upholstery.
Called Tear Repair. Call Poxy. What is a good option to get the front seats recovered, as the local guy says that he only has vinyl yuk. New leather covers are available from the dealer at about bucks for each seat.
Instead of doing the dealer rape, I took it to a local auto upholstery shop. They took a good look at what needed to be done, and suggested they replace the panels in the seats that were either worn, cracked or torn. They replaced the panels, and then redyed the whole seat to its original color. This was done to both front seats, and the dye was put on the whole interior.
They also put in a brand new headliner for me, and fixed a few nick nicks around the interior. I think that might work for you instead of bending over at the dealer. As we discussed the options for proper repair, he told me he gets all his replacement leather from a supplier who dyes the leather to match what's already in the car--He clips a small sample from under the seat to use for color match.
This upholstery shop then sews up the replacements. Now I'm gonna tackle the wife's sedan. Passenger's seat has a rip in the middle of the seat.
Any hints to avoid trouble? You should remove the seat pocket- 1 screw on rear, spring loaded retainer on front. Looking from under pocket, you will see a hole with a spring and round plastic thing. Stick a screwdriver in and press the retainer toward the seat, and gently jiggle the pocket upward. Then you will find a steel hook about inches from the front of the seat cushion.
Push the hook toward the center of the seat and unhook from seat frame. Pretty straight forward. I usually leave seat bolted down. However, if you decide to remove it, after unbolting all 4 corners.
There are slots in the floor with holes key shaped. Not too difficult. If you have color problems due to scratches, etc. There is usually a good match in color to be found although watch color density: the lighter densities work better. Use the marker to color in the scratches, etc. The seats do look good. Of course I'm still going to get some Lexol and treat them to keep them looking good.
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